News and Events
Meetings in 2024
January - "Waterways and Railways across the Derbyshire Peak." A talk by Mike Higginbotham, Historical Educationalist.
The speaker explained that his main objective in this talk was to heighten awareness of the signs of old waterways, trackways and railways when walking in the local surroundings. He intended to use the routes between Manchester and the East Midlands as his example. This route linked the important cotton industry of the North West with the East Midlands coalfields, but was difficult terrain to cross because of the Dark and White Peak areas, the latter particularly unsuited to canal and rail development.
Natural river routes and packhorse transport had long been the only means of long-distance transport of goods but rivers did not run everywhere and packhorse transport was relatively low volume and difficult for delicate goods. Advancing technologies allowed the development of canals but these too were difficult to construct in hilly areas. Locks mitigated height changes but needed a water supply to fill, so could be very slow or impossible to use at the very highest points. With the developments of iron (and later steel) rails and steam power, it was possible to move bulk items uphill, initially on horse-drawn trackways and later railways powered by static steam engines or locomotives. Often, it was the combination of waterways and railways that was key to producing efficient transport systems.
Mike illustrated these points by talking about the Cromford canal that linked Cromford to the Erewash and Nottingham canals, the Peak Forest canal running between Marple and Whaley Bridge and then the trackways and later railways that ran from Peak Forest to Dove Holes and on to Cromford, thereby completing a single route. With connections further north from Marple and south from the Erewash and Nottingham canals, this provided a complete system linking the north-west to the east midlands.
With comprehensive and impressive illustrations, Mike then demonstrated many of the features of these systems, how they had changed with time and their present state.
The Cromford canal was fully opened by 1794 and traffic was so great that two canals were needed southwards from Erewash to cope with it. The route was still intact (but not in use) in the 1960s but since then has been compromised in many areas by subsequent rail and road routes and by adjacent industrial development. Structures still visible include, Cromford Wharf, Wigwell aqueduct, Leawood Pumphouse (with a Cornish crossbeam engine still operational on heritage days), Aqueduct Cottage (at the junction of a branch canal to Nightingale’s Mill and which became derelict but has been restored to its original 1802 state), Leawood aqueduct and many tunnels (including Gregory, Hag, Buckland Hollow and Butterley) some of which are passable on foot and others not so. Much of the route is being restored but it is unlikely that it will be completely restored because of the routes of the A6 and the current East Midlands mainline.
Mike then similarly reviewed many features of the route of the Peak Forest canal. This has been more thoroughly restored to form part of the “Cheshire Loop” of canalways that are circumnavigable. During restoration a piece of early tramway was uncovered and has been preserved.
Mike then discussed the Cromford and High Peak Railway, setting it in the wider context of the developments in rail systems in the midlands and centred around Derby, as well as in the specific context of that route between High Peak and Cromford. He explained that it followed a route that had been originally conceived as one of two possible routes for canals across the Peak but which were considered impractical on closer inspection. He discussed significant inclines at Whaley Bridge, Shallcross, Hindlow, Hurdlow, Hopton, Middleton, Sheep Pasture and Cromford. This number is, itself, testimony to the engineering effort involved. Some significant features were a 1 in 14 incline at Hopton (so severe, that on the rare occasions the line was used for passengers, they had to get out and walk up this stretch) and the Middleton Top steam house. This latter is still well preserved and a major visitor centre; there is a well-preserved wagon-trap designed to stop runaway wagons from hurtling across the adjacent Midland mainline.
Mike finished his talk with a discussion of the North Midland Railway. This was not a direct part of the route described above, but was relevant as it intersected in several places. It ran north from Derby with its grand station and Roundhouse, the Midland Hotel for first-class travellers and the Brunswick Hotel for the rest (these of course also serving the other routes to London, Nottingham, Leeds, etc). It passed through a triangular station junction at Ambergate (of which little remains) and Cromford Station to Matlock and thence to Rowsley, Bakewell, Hassop , Monsall Dale, Chee Tor and on to Buxton. Points of interest here are that:
- a mainline service still exists as far as Matlock, probably only because of the re-siting of the County Council headquarters from Derby to Matlock
- the original route through Chatsworth Park was abandoned with a change of Duke, so Rowsley station was never used and is part of the Rowsley shopping centre
- many station buildings along the line remain but have been repurposed as small industrial units or shops
- Miller’s Dale station is built on the only reasonably flat land on the route and was a 5-platform affair to accommodate passing of slow trains by faster direct services
- the terminus at Buxton was built adjacent to an identical station serving the Buxton to Manchester line at the behest of the Duke of Devonshire who owned most of the land and was a Director of both Rail companies
- much of the route is now the Monsall Trail for walkers and cyclists but there remains a possibility that it may be restored at some time even if this prospect is remote.
On behalf of the History Group, Mike Holcombe offered a vote of thanks to Mike Higginbotham for a most interesting and well-received talk.
February - “Scheduled Monuments - Importance, Monitoring and Preservation”. A talk by Catherine Parker-Heath, Community and Conservation Archaeologist, Peak District National Park Authority.
Catherine began by defining the term “scheduled monument” as any nationally important archaeological site that has received scheduled status from Historic England (HE). There are over 200 categories ranging from the obvious, such as stone circles, henges, ancient forts and mediaeval castles, through items of industrial and historic heritage down to individual items such as mileposts or gas lights. Because modern and industrial items may also be scheduled, the older term “ancient monument” is no longer used in scheduling.
Scheduling began in 1918 following belated enactment of an Act of Parliament from the 1860s, and has been updated by a more recent act of 1975. HE has responsibility for scheduling and maintenance of the monuments although the latter may be discharged through other bodies such as the National Trust or the Peak Park. Over 20,000 items are listed on the HE website which also carries a guide used in the selection of sites. Anyone may propose a site for scheduling and HE’s assessment will consider factors such as the period, rarity and potential of a site. Sometimes a site is scheduled because of the collective impact of a number of items which individually may not have been scheduled (Big Moor is one such example). In the Peak National Park, there are 476 scheduled monuments.
Each monument must undergo a Conditions Survey, usually carried out by volunteers and Park Rangers, in order to make a baseline assessment of the site and to help determine priorities for conservation. The survey is by on-site observation, drawing and photography. Repeat surveys may be needed to check changes with time. The assessment leads to placement in one of three categories. Of the 476 sites in the Peak Park, 9 are considered in the “At Risk” category, 84 as “Vulnerable” and 279 “Not at Risk”. There are a further 104 classed as “No Value”, although this term may be misleading as the group includes sites that are yet to be fully assessed or where their heritage value is still being researched. (Another job for volunteers).
Catherine then described some of the factors that lead to damage or deterioration of the monuments, using examples predominantly from the local area. These included
- overgrazing by farm animals, where the production of bare earth allows erosion
- poor placement of feeding stations, producing erosive animal tracks
- ploughing (not particularly significant locally but a problem in many arable areas)
- trees which may directly destroy vulnerable walls and buildings but may also have indirect effects where forest tracks are established and heavy machinery is used
- bracken can spread by 3m per year and produces deep disturbance to the subsoil
- burrowing animals (Catherine showed an example of an ancient barrow that had been almost completely destroyed by badger setts)
- natural erosion by rain, snow and freeze-thaw cycles (becoming more common with climate change)
- massive flood events that may produce dramatic “one-off” effects.
In addition a number of human interventions may be deleterious:
- land development - fences, road repairs, garden extensions, etc may all destroy or disturb archaeology
- metal detecting
- fly tipping
- setting fires
- graffiti
- off-roading
- visitor erosion
Most of these activities are illegal at a scheduled monument without specific permission, but the greatest problems are ignorance of the law and lack of awareness of the significance of the site.
Catherine illustrated each of these points with some remarkable photographs showing their adverse impacts. She then talked in more detail about some very local sites including Big Moor which has lots of sites including standing stones and stone circles, Padley Hall, Hob Hurst’s House (which is one of three “Guardianship” sites that the PDNPA manages directly) and Carl Wark. This last has recently suffered deliberate vandalism with breakage of ancient rocks pushed off its plateau.
The talk ended with a discussion of the need to balance our archaeological heritage with other aspects of our cultural and natural heritage. For example, there is a major project underway on Big Moor to re-establish peat bog that has been lost, to replant sphagnum moss and to build leaky dams to increase water retention and reduce the likelihood of flooding in future years. Doing this in a way that does not damage the archaeology of the scheduled monuments requires close collaboration between all agencies and careful planning.
After a lively discussion, Mike Holcombe offered a vote of thanks to Catherine for her comprehensive presentation of the topic.
March - "Transportation and Beyond" - a talk by John Barnett, local historian on the transportation of felons to Australia, illustrated by examples from Derbyshire.
John briefly outlined the history of transporting felons to distant parts, both the Greeks and the Romans did this. In 1597, during the reign of Elizabeth I, the Privy Council enacted such a policy, if any tried to return they were executed. In 1615 under James I, there were 2300 transported to Virginia and Maryland in the American colonies. Under George I in 1718 more were sent to America, usually serving 7 years. They were sold to merchants there for £10, a saving on buying slaves at £30-50. Virginia opposed the practice but were overruled. The American War of Independence put a stop to it. The next destination was West Africa to service the forts being established there. Most died of disease and the policy was stopped.
The law in England classified some crimes as double felonies – such as stealing something worth more than 39 shillings. These were capital offences although some were commuted to transportation. In these cases, the prisoners were taken on coaches to London, a very unpleasant journey and put on prison hulks to await their transportation ship. Many died in the dreadful conditions on these hulks.
Botany Bay in Australia was chosen as the first penal colony in 1779 and a fleet of 11 ships was sent, consisting of 2 navy ships, 3 store ships and 6 prison ships. There were 1420 people on the ships at the start, 778 being convicts, and 1336 survived the 8 month journey. 9 babies were born on the journey.
Botany Bay was found to be unsuitable because of a lack of potential farming land and everything was transferred to Port Jackson in Sydney Cove. Things started badly as much of the seed for crops taken on the ships germinated in the tropics, so food was in short supply.
A second fleet was planned but did not materialise. There were too few women to establish a viable colony – 189 women and 740 men. There were 2 women from Derbyshire. Anyone misbehaving was threatened with being taken and abandoned in New Zealand for the Maoris to eat!
Eventually, in 1789 a ship full of women, mainly prostitutes guilty of stealing, were sent in the ship Lady Julian. It contained 60 sets of baby clothes. The marines and sailors had the pick of the women when they arrived to form families.
Another fleet left in 1790 but one was wrecked on route. This group contained 928 men and 78 female convicts. 256 died on route and another 124 died after landing – all this was due to the poor conditions on the ships. The captains were paid on the numbers they took rather than on the numbers that arrived safely, so food was rationed to save money and many died of neglect and overcrowding. The Government then changed the payment to paying after arrival and things improved on later journeys.
Most convicts had few useful skills – farming, building, etc. - so early days in the colony were difficult. For those convicts that behaved it was possible to get a Ticket to Leave, Conditional or Absolute Pardons which enabled them to live ordinary lives in the colony, on farms or providing services. Those who were pardoned could rarely afford to return to England.
Some tried to escape, but very few succeeded. Those that were recaptured were hung. In 1791 Mary Bryant and her husband (a fisherman) and a group managed to steal a boat and got to Indonesia, which was then Dutch. Following loose talk, the Dutch realised who they were and sent them back to the British. Mary was tried in London and was imprisoned rather than executed following the intervention of Dr. Boswell, who admired her exploit. He later gave her a pension and she retired to Cornwall.
After the American War of Independence many soldiers returned home and took their old jobs back and unemployment among women grew and this led to more crime and an increase in transportation. Factories for women were set up in Sydney, for clothes making and similar trades.
Tasmania also became a penal colony and factories and laundries were set up for women to work in. If they behaved they could get a job outside the prison. Some prisons had different zones for those who behaved badly, those who were on probation and those who could be considered for outside work.
In 1852 transportation stopped.
A number of Derbyshire convicts have been identified: John Holmes of Belper; John Brough of Wirksworth; both freed or pardoned in time. John could find no one from Baslow who was transported!
Finally, we come to a distant relative of John’s - Maria Hitchcock from Mugginton. She was found guilty of stealing in 1831 and transported. She was eventually released and married a farmer. They were successful and expanded their farm. Many released convicts were given land to farm, to expand the colony, but few had the knowledge for farming, and many sold their holdings to others, including Maria. Marie and her husband were eventually able to buy an hotel. She died in1875.
This was a well-illustrated talk with a personal touch at the end and the audience were very appreciative.
April - "Renishaw Hall and the Sitwell family" - A talk by Christine Beevers, Archivist at Renishaw Hall
This excellent talk started by Chris quoting the famous artist, Rex Whistler, “Renishaw is the most exciting place I know”. Chris works in the Archives, called the Duke’s Room - named after the Duke of Devonshire - a large room full of boxes of correspondence and other information. The Hall is the family home of Alexandra Heywood nee Sitwell and, despite it being an important historical house is very much a family home. The Hall is about 400 years old but started as a modest hall in a region of grander places.
Robert Sitwell (1520-1599) a local coal mine owner started the building and construction was continued by George who expanded into iron working. At one time the foundry was the largest producer of nails in the world. During the English Civil War the company sold weapons to the armies on both sides and the family became very rich. This led to a large building programme at the Hall. There was a line of studious Sitwell squires but the family line ended in 1776.
A nephew, Francis Hart, was adopted and inherited the estate, took the Sitwell name and married an heiress. The names Sacheverell and Reresby came with the ‘deal’. Francis’ eldest son, already named Sitwell, thus became Sitwell Sitwell. He became a Baronet in 1808 and continued building including a Stud to support his horse racing activities. The architect was Joseph Badger. The formal gardens were removed and replaced with the fashionable ‘Arcadian’ style. The road was moved away from the house.
Sitwell’s son George was a keen gardener and collaborated with Joseph Paxton in growing new plant introductions. The family used to holiday at Balmoral before Queen Victoria purchased it. He was friends with the Duke of Devonshire who was godfather to son Reresby. He was at Chatsworth when the young Victoria visited. Despite his friendship with the Devonshires he was a political rival and stood against Sir William in the 1832 election when the issue was the Great Reform Act. He was roundly beaten. George got into financial trouble, sold the contents of the Hall and went to Italy. His son, Sir Reresby, tried to sell the Hall to no avail.
Fortunes improved with the discovery of a new coal seam and, through the efforts of Lady Louise, the Hall was saved. The 4th Baronet, Sir George, was a lover of Italy and bought a tumbled down castle there in 1909. He altered the house at Renishaw and created the Italianate gardens. There are many works of art and fine furniture and tapestries in the house, including 70 paintings by John Piper.
The Sitwells were internationally famous because of Sir George’s three children: Edith, Osbert and Sacheverell who were very influential in literature, music and art. Edith wrote an innovative musical performance with music by William Walton. She also supported many poets including Dylan Thomas. She wrote a poem “Still falls the rain” inspired by the blitz in Sheffield and London. The current owner is the granddaughter of Sacheverell.
Subsequent Note:
After the meeting, Chris Beevers has sent a piece of further information following some further research into links between the Sitwells and Chatsworth/the Devonshires. It is reproduced below:
Subsequent Note:
After the meeting, Chris Beevers has sent a piece of further information following some further research into links between the Sitwells and Chatsworth/the Devonshires. It is reproduced below:
“REVELRY AT CHATSWORTH 12 JANUARY 1899”
A postscript from Chris Beevers, Renishaw Hall Archives
A week after I had given the talk on “Renishaw Hall and the Sitwells” I came across this newspaper cutting of a ball held at Chatsworth on 12 January 1899, tucked into one of Sir George Sitwell’s many notebooks. This unexpected and exciting discovery would have fitted perfectly into the talk had I found it earlier. It is an invaluable find for the Sitwell family archive because it shows Sir George Sitwell (4th Bt) leading the Duchess of Devonshire into “the procession for supper”.
Here is the sketch and a brief summary of the accounts of the ball which can be found in the British Newspaper archive:
A postscript from Chris Beevers, Renishaw Hall Archives
A week after I had given the talk on “Renishaw Hall and the Sitwells” I came across this newspaper cutting of a ball held at Chatsworth on 12 January 1899, tucked into one of Sir George Sitwell’s many notebooks. This unexpected and exciting discovery would have fitted perfectly into the talk had I found it earlier. It is an invaluable find for the Sitwell family archive because it shows Sir George Sitwell (4th Bt) leading the Duchess of Devonshire into “the procession for supper”.
Here is the sketch and a brief summary of the accounts of the ball which can be found in the British Newspaper archive:
A grand county ball was held on 12 January 1899 for which more than 500 invitations were sent out. The most notable guests included Lord Rosebery, the Earl of Chesterfield, the Earl of Hardwicke, Lord Stavordale, the Duke and Duchess of Marlborough, the Duchess of Sutherland , Lady Moyra Cavendish , the Ladies Primrose, the Duke and Duchess of Rutland and others.
Sir George and Lady Ida Sitwell “and party” attended as did Sir George’s land agent Peveril Turnbull 0f Sandybrook Hall near Ashover. Many country house owners from across neighbouring counties were present e.g. from Barlborough Hall, Calke Abbey, Sutton Scarsdale, Hopton Hall, Elvaston Hall, Okeover Hall and Ogston Hall. ( report from the Sheffield Independent Friday 13 January 1899)
The last ball given at Chatsworth had been 27 years earlier in 1872, so this ball was a much-anticipated event.
However, the weather that evening grew evermore inclement as guest were arriving. The wind blew to a perfect hurricane, blowing down a large tree in Chatsworth Park , across the carriage road. Carriages from near and far were rolling over the sloppy limestone roads, uphill and down dale, all converging to where the lights of Chatsworth’s promise of a hospitable welcome.
The arrangements were on a lavish and brilliant scale. Guests arrived about 10 0’clock and proceeded into the Painted Hall and up the grand staircase. Supper was served in the orangery , reached by a procession through the magnificent sculpture gallery with its priceless treasures of art.
The decorations and illuminations were of a gorgeous character. The dining room was set apart for dancing. The music for the dancing was supplied by the Blue Hungarian Band for a varied programme of twenty dances.
The party dispersed just after 3 o’clock and a special train conveyed guests from Rowsley to places south of Chatsworth arriving at Derby about 4.00am.
Many other newspapers reported on this brilliant ball which had taken place at ‘The Palace of the Peak’ with wonderful detail which really brings to life this social event from a bygone era.
Chris Beevers
19.4.24
Sir George and Lady Ida Sitwell “and party” attended as did Sir George’s land agent Peveril Turnbull 0f Sandybrook Hall near Ashover. Many country house owners from across neighbouring counties were present e.g. from Barlborough Hall, Calke Abbey, Sutton Scarsdale, Hopton Hall, Elvaston Hall, Okeover Hall and Ogston Hall. ( report from the Sheffield Independent Friday 13 January 1899)
The last ball given at Chatsworth had been 27 years earlier in 1872, so this ball was a much-anticipated event.
However, the weather that evening grew evermore inclement as guest were arriving. The wind blew to a perfect hurricane, blowing down a large tree in Chatsworth Park , across the carriage road. Carriages from near and far were rolling over the sloppy limestone roads, uphill and down dale, all converging to where the lights of Chatsworth’s promise of a hospitable welcome.
The arrangements were on a lavish and brilliant scale. Guests arrived about 10 0’clock and proceeded into the Painted Hall and up the grand staircase. Supper was served in the orangery , reached by a procession through the magnificent sculpture gallery with its priceless treasures of art.
The decorations and illuminations were of a gorgeous character. The dining room was set apart for dancing. The music for the dancing was supplied by the Blue Hungarian Band for a varied programme of twenty dances.
The party dispersed just after 3 o’clock and a special train conveyed guests from Rowsley to places south of Chatsworth arriving at Derby about 4.00am.
Many other newspapers reported on this brilliant ball which had taken place at ‘The Palace of the Peak’ with wonderful detail which really brings to life this social event from a bygone era.
Chris Beevers
19.4.24